Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Mini Pizza Tour Part 2: Restaurant Navona

The All over Albany crew left Stuyvesant Plaza and headed over to Restaurant Navona on New Scotland. Navona isn’t strictly a pizza place like Blaze. It’s a restaurant that also has wood fired pizza. The restaurant is really nice and this could definitely be a nice neighborhood restaurant. So far, I’ve only had the pizza so I can’t speak to the rest of the menu, but many of the menu items have at least one element influenced by the wood fired oven.

My pictures came out pretty bad.  For much nicer views of the pizza, check out the All over Albany write up here.

On to the pizza: the Navona pizza looks to be heavily influenced by the Neapolitan style although I don’t believe they adhere strictly to the Neapolitan rules and regulations. Certainly not a problem because many of the rules seem to be rules for the sake of having rules and the VPN organization often seems to be more about money than pizza. The wood fired oven is from Mugnaini, a well known specialist in commercial/residential ovens and still had a front landing to be installed. Due to some delays, the oven had only been installed for about a month at the time of our visit.

We sat at the corner of the bar as the restaurant was gearing up for a busy Saturday night. The first pie I tasted was the Cheese Puddle with mozzarella, provolone, ricotta, roasted garlic and olive oil.  I liked the flavor of the dough but there was a little too much char around the outside of the bottom. I thought the cheese had combined and had a beautiful, almost brie flavor. I enjoyed the pie. Not sure this would be a topping combination I’d seek out again, but I certainly wouldn’t turn down a slice if you were offering.

The second pie I sampled was the Valentina – Pecorino Bianco, ham, egg and black pepper. This pie has less char and very pretty leoparding. When egg yolk was broken, the yolk ran and added richness to the pie. I really liked the flavor combination.  Excellent pizza. I’d steal this topping but one improvement I’d suggest is to cook the egg directly on the pizza instead of in a pan. A nice presentation might be to slice the pie table side so the diners can dig in quickly after the yolk starts to run.

Pizza number 3 was the Navona which is essentially a Margherita. In speaking with Jay of OG Woodfired in Buffalo, he told me that what he loves the most about a Margherita is the simplicity. There is nowhere to hide. If anything is off, you know. This pie had a little bit of a gum line. The bottom of my slice was a little too charred – it’s a difficult line to walk, some char is delicious, too much is burnt. Even thought my pictures stink, you can see a big difference in char compared to the Valentina. I liked the sauce. It tasted like good tomatoes and salt, as it should be. The cheese and basil were good too. I would try this one again and I bet it is better in a month with more dough and oven experience.

The final pizza was Fire Roasted Eggplant with tomato jam, roasted fennel R&G goat cheese and house harissa. There was a gum line again. I think there is a little bit of an oven/dough learning curve that will improve the pizza as time passes and experience is gained. I liked the flavors on this pie but I doubt I’d go pick it again with the other options available.This is the worst picture I took that day, either the camera didn't focus or I had a minor seizure.

After the tasting we had a conversation with the chef. He clearly is passionate about the food he serves his guests. During this conversation, I felt like I put my foot in my mouth (for the 2nd time of the day) talking about the oven. The first time was at Blaze when I made a comment about the artichoke pizza before Deanna tried it. Kind of a judging faux pas. We were talking about the oven construction and the chef was describing the 9 inch concrete slab below the oven floor. I’m not sure if I made a confused face or what, it’s kind of a blur, but I said something like, “and insulation, right?” Nope. No insulation under that floor. From everything I’ve read on ovens, that’s a huge error. But I am unfamiliar with this particular oven, maybe an insulating layer is built into the floor. Or maybe it isn’t as big a deal for an oven that is fired daily. I don’t know. I can say with the oven I am planning, the oven floor with have a minimum of 2 inches of ceramic fiber insulation. I'm leaning towards 4 inches of insulation depending on how tall the oven stand ends up being. But that heat balance and the conductivity of the floor is very important for an even bake.

I think the pizza dough could actually use a little more salt. I’m taking a wild guess here, but I’d say the baker’s percentage of salt is under 2% and raising it a little to 2.5%, maybe even up to 3% would add flavor to the dough.

Overall, I really like what’s going on here. It’s good pizza with the potential to get better. In fact, if the restaurant was open on Sundays, I would have brought the whole family for dinner on Super Bowl Sunday to give some more of the menu a try. And the Mister Bill pizza too - meatball with fennel salami, tomato and mozzarella.


  1. For what it's worth, when I talked to Mike, he told me he couldn't get the egg to set properly when cooking it on the pizza. So he decided to fry it in a pan.

    I had the Mr. Bill, I liked it. The meatball is just ok, but the salami he uses is excellent and it works really well on his pizza.

    I'm also hoping he'll change up the menu and feature different pizzas from time to time.

  2. Holy crap I had no idea pizza like this existed so close to me...

  3. Holy crap I had no idea pizza like this existed so close to me...

  4. Jon - are the pizzas as thick as the pictures make them look? Every picture I've seen of their pizzas (and not just yours, I've seen others post on other platforms) look really thick. If they're not stretching the dough enough (or can't), the longer contact time would explain the excessive char (which I'd call burnt). Thick crust and burnt doesn't seem appealing to me for a wood fired Neopolitan (or Neopolitan inspired) pie.

  5. Jerry- the pizza may have been a little on the thick side. Perhaps the dough ball is a little too heavy for the desired diameter. The important thing to remember is that at the time of this tasting, the chef had the oven for less than a month. All the time he planned to learn to use tuning in his dough and learning to dial in the oven were lost to construction delays. I don't know if the chef has prior wood fired oven experience. If he doesn't, I'd say he is doing pretty well for just a few weeks. I am optimistic that given a little time these pizzas will improve significantly. Mentally, I'm already planning another visit. I'd like to go in the spring (if not sooner) when there is more oven experience but before the heat and humidity of summer throw another wrench into dough management.

    Jeni - available for lunch and dinner 6 days a week. I believe Tala in Latham has a wood oven too. I haven't tried their pizza. Milano in Latham does too, but I haven been back in years after a...well less than optimal meal.

    Steve- I believe than plan is to change up the menu. The online still says January but I don't know if it has been updated in the restaurant.

  6. I love all of the pizza lingo you use! I get a kick out hobby specific jargon.

  7. Hobbies do have their own language. One of my personal favorites is Thickness Factor (TF). You take the weight of a dough ball in ouces divided by the area of the pizza. The thickness factor for a typical New York slice typically falls in the .07 to .1 range.